The choice of fragrance It is something very personal that not only depends on tastes, but also on the mood, the time of year and even the context in which it is going to be used.
The first filter that has historically been used to begin the process of choosing a perfume was to separate them by sex and decide according to ours. What does this unconscious detail imply? That we miss the 50% chance of finding the one we like. “Basing ourselves on gender to choose a perfume is a limitation that does not make sense. In the same way that there is no art for men or women, nor gastronomy for men or women, there are no notes more similar to the taste of men or women. It is a cultural construct, and avoiding it opens the mind and enriches the olfactory experience“. They are words of Lorenzo Villoresione of the most internationally recognized perfumers and creator of classics such as ‘Teint de Neige’, undoubtedly on the list of the most sought after.
Basing ourselves on gender to choose a perfume is a limitation that does not make sense.
emotions or memories
Where should the focus be placed to make the right choice? “Since a perfume appeals to the olfactory memory, either by refloating a memory or as an integrated element in the formation of new memories, I suggest that emotion be the basis on which to choose a perfume. The biggest mistake a person can make is buy a perfume because it’s in fashion,” explains Villoresi.
As important as all of the above is patience. The first ‘flash’ is not the smell that lasts. The first thing that comes to us are the top notes, but the ones that last are the background ones. This nuance is also explained by the Florentine perfumer: “A perfume is not fully expressed until a few hours have passed. The first notes are the top notes and they are the ones that seduce us in the first instance, but they are not the complete story. What is recommended is Smell the perfume throughout the day, and also always test it on the skin, because there are personal variables such as diet or pH that can alter the fragrance”.
Finally, once we have ‘our aroma’ we must know how to apply it: “Some areas of the body are more strategic, where the pulse beats, such as the wrists, the inside of the elbow and knee joints, under the chest, the navel and the nape of the neck. It is important to never rub the wrists after applying the perfume so as not to degrade the heart of the composition”, concludes Villoresi.
Perfumes without gender
These are the editorial’s favorite perfumes within the so-called genderless or unisex. The musky ones win but there is something for everyone. What’s yours?
Fico di Amalfi it smells of the Mediterranean Sea and the fig tree. It has citrus notes, fig, pink pepper and jasmine. From €65, from Aqua di Parma.
154 is the street number of the first Jo Malone boutique in London. It smells of tangerine, lavender, basil… From €129, from Jo Malone.
Iperborea, with top notes of thrush, musk, green notes, magnolia and mimosa. It smells of the countryside, grass and clean sheets. From €100, by Lorenzo Villoresi.
Like Father Like Son. New citrus perfume for parents and children but with a clearly unisex spirit. It has lemon, ginger, mint and pear. From €54, from El Ganso.
Poudre Matcha It is a warm and velvety unisex perfume with notes of matcha tea, rose and vanilla. From €60, from Kenzo.
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